The Making of Old-Fashioned Honey Candy in Chennai's Old Washermanpet

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The making of mittai - The Hindu
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Sweet memories: Udhayam Thaen Mittai keeps traditional candy alive

Chennai, India - In a fast-changing world where tastes and trends often come and go quickly, some old-fashioned treats manage to endure, creating a nostalgic connection between generations. Udhayam Thaen Mittai is one such sweet that many people in Chennai still love to savour.

Located in a nondescript street in Old Washermanpet, the modest factory produces honey candy that looks like small balls of fire, with a vivid orange colour and a sticky texture. The candy, which is made from a blend of honey, sugar and flour, is often associated with the noisy stalls of village fairs and marketplaces, where vendors would lure children with the promise of a free taste, hoping to turn them into loyal customers.

But Udhayam Thaen Mittai stands out from those sellers by keeping the quality of its candy consistent and the taste authentic, using the same recipe for over six decades. The founder of the company, K. S. Mani, who passed away in 2003, was inspired by his grandmother's homemade sweets and started experimenting with honey candy in the 1950s, using a clay oven and a wooden mallet.

Today, the process has become more mechanised, but the essence remains the same. A team of 28 workers, mostly women, roll the dough into small balls, flatten them into discs, cut them into squares with a knife, and fry them in boiling oil until they turn crispy and golden. Then, they add drops of a natural colouring solution made from carrot and papaya to give the candy its signature hue. Finally, they wrap the candy in transparent paper and pack it into cardboard boxes that are sold to wholesale and retail customers.

M. Balaji, the founder's grandson and the current managing director of Udhayam Thaen Mittai, says his company aims to preserve the traditional taste of honey candy, which has a distinctive flavour and aroma different from other candies. "We don't use artificial flavours or preservatives. We source our honey and flour from trusted suppliers, and we don't compromise on hygiene or quality control," he says.

Balaji acknowledges that the market for honey candy has become more competitive in recent years, with new brands and variants coming up, and that the pandemic has affected their sales and supply chain. However, he believes that Udhayam Thaen Mittai's reputation and loyal customer base will help it survive the challenges. "Our candy is not just a commodity for us. It's a legacy that we want to pass on to future generations. We have customers who grew up eating our candy and now bring their grandchildren to taste it. That's a source of pride and motivation for us," he says.

Indeed, many customers who visit the factory or order online attest to the deliciousness and fondness they have for Udhayam Thaen Mittai's candy. "It reminds me of my childhood and my visits to the fair with my father. The taste of real honey and the crunchiness of the dough are unbeatable," says S. Arjunan, a 52-year-old retired banker who bought a box of candy for his family.

Another customer, A. Kavitha, a 35-year-old homemaker, says she appreciates the simplicity and purity of Udhayam Thaen Mittai's candy. "There are so many fancy sweets that claim to be healthy or exotic, but they are full of artificial colours, flavours and chemicals. This candy is natural and honest. It's a guilt-free pleasure that I can share with my kids," she says.

As Udhayam Thaen Mittai sustains its mission to provide a timeless treat to its patrons, it also faces a challenge of finding successors who will carry on the craft and passion of candy-making. Balaji says the company is exploring avenues to train and recruit new talent, especially from the younger generations who might be interested in reviving the art of making honey candy. "We want to ensure that Udhayam Thaen Mittai continues to thrive and innovate, without losing its essence and values," he says.

For now, Udhayam Thaen Mittai keeps rolling, cutting and frying its bright orange dough, filling the air with the aroma of honey and the sound of crackling oil. The candy may not be as flashy or trendy as some other confectionery products, but it has a charm and a flavour that have stood the test of time.

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